Listen to the episode
Fabric Shopping in India with Nandita (@divinedita) – The Asian Sewist Collective Podcast
Links
Nandita – @divinedita on IG
Mister Larrie’s fabric pumpkin tutorial on IG
True Bias – Roscoe Blouse & Dress
Patterns by Paary – Jilebi Jumper
Nandita’s outfit made from Salwar Kameez set
Thank you to our sponsor for this episode, Oliso, check out more about the M3Pro project iron.
Transcript
Nicole
Thank you to Oliso for sponsoring this episode. More on them later.
Ada
Welcome to the Asian Sewist Collective Podcast. The Asian Sewist Collective is a group of Asian people from around the world brought together by our shared appreciation for fiber and textile arts and our desire to see more Asian representation in the sewing community.
Nicole
In this podcast we explore the intersection of identities and our shared sewing practice as we create a space for Asian Sewists and our allies.
Ada
I’m your co-host, Ada Chen, and I’m recording from Denver, Colorado. Denver is the traditional territory of the Ute, Cheyenne, and Arapaho peoples. I’m a Taiwanese American marketer turned entrepreneur, and these days you’ll find me running my natural skincare brand, Erleia. That’s E-R-L-E-I-A. Find us on social media at Erleia Skin. Most importantly for this podcast, you can find my sewing at i.hope.sew on Instagram.
Nicole
And I’m your co-host, Nicole. I’m recording outside of Chicago, Illinois, the original homelands of the Council of the Three Fires, the Ojibwe, the Potawatomi, and the Odawa people. I’m a Philippine American lawyer who loves to sew, and you can find me on Instagram at Nicoleangelinesews.
[Podcast]
Ada
We are so excited to have our season one guest and friend Nandita back on the podcast. She was our second ever guest on the ASC podcast. So we talked about that on an episode way back when about pattern testing in 2021. So quite a lot has changed since then.
Nicole
And she’s continued to make, pattern test, and inspire the sewing community with her bold outfits. And earlier this year, she traveled to India. We wanted to have her on the pod to take us through her fabric and textile exploration journey. So welcome back, Nandita.
Nandita
Thank you, it’s good to see you both. It’s been a while. I just realized that it’s been 2021. That’s the last time we spoke. It does not seem that long ago, but it is.
Nicole
Yeah.
Nandita
Thank you again.
Ada
I mean, we speak on Instagram all the time.
Nandita
We do. So that’s why I thought, wait, 2021? twenty one But that being said, how wonderful for the pod to have the inaugural season way back when and we’re looking at where you are now. So congratulations.
Nicole
Thank you
Ada
Thanks. So before we get into the real, you know, reason we have you on the podcast again today, you know that we usually start with a sew and chat, like what’s on your table, what are you working on?
Ada
But because you are such a prolific maker, we wanted to rope you in on that and the fun this time. So, Nandita, what are you currently working on What can people expect to see on your feed soon?
Nandita
Soon you can see, well, this week you’ll be seeing some patterns by Sew Like Romy her Wynyard dress. I was fortunate enough to be gifted the pattern by her, so thank you, Romy. And I made two versions. And as you know, I travel extensively. So like I was speaking of earlier, I just came back from St. Kitts. So St. Kitts had a whole new wardrobe. It was a quick one. So just three pieces.
But yes, I’ve been working on that. But currently on my table, I am part of the Sew and Share team for Tauko Magazine. And so I’m working on a dress and it’s going, it’s a challenge, but in a good way. So I’m real excited about that.
Ada
I can’t wait to see that. Nicole, what are you sewing?
Nicole
I don’t have anything near as fun as what Nandita’s working on. At the time of recording, it is early October and I have made pumpkins with fabric.
Ada
I think you’re going to need to elaborate. Okay, for those who are not watching the podcast on YouTube and you’re just listening, Nicole is holding up literally a fabric pumpkin.
Nandita
It’s beautiful.
Ada
What? How?
Nicole
How, yes, indeed how. I found a tutorial. I was originally inspired by Mr. Larrie, who posted a reel about him making fabric pumpkins. And they were much bigger. And I did some Googling and I found a pattern for a five panel pumpkin. So it’s like an oblong pointed. I should have brought the pattern piece. Kind of like a cat eye. And five of them are sewn together. And then they form a ball. So I think the pattern was originally just like a ball to play with and you can stuff it with whatever. But if you smush it down, it kind of looks like a pumpkin.
Nandita
It’s adorable.
Nicole
So- Yeah, it’s, I’ve been kind of obsessed with making these because they are just fun and frivolous and they’re filled with my scraps. I actually ran out of scraps and I opened up a thing that I’d made as a dog bed, but in my head I was like, I don’t really want to donate this because like it’ll get dirty and you can’t really wash it And i was like, I don’t know what to do with this.
So I reopened the dog bed and I’m making more pumpkins and listeners, let me move this around. You have heard us talk about this quilt that I made. Oh it’s like sitting right here. It’s the scraps from the quilt, friends. Let me move.
Ada
Oh, they match. That’s so cute.
Nicole
So YouTube, this is why you should be on our YouTube channel. There were, I think, four more panels of this Liberty-inspired quilt top.
Nandita
I was going to ask, is it Liberty it’s so cute.
Nicole
We don’t know because it was donated as pre-made squares. And then I think this was made from two of the squares that didn’t fit the rectangle, but listeners, and I think in one of our last sewing chats, it was, you know, this is the one that’s made with the Bichon fabric, but yeah, I’ve been making a bunch of these. It’s been fun. It’s super easy. And everything is reused. So nothing is new.
Fabric scraps on the inside using fabric that I already own or grabbed from where I volunteer at Partners for our Community, which is all donated fabric. Even the stem is like a strip of fabric from, like a canvas cotton thing that I just like rolled up and I hand sewed it. It’s a fair amount of, it’s not a lot of hand sewing. It’s actually just hand sewing to close after you’ve stuffed and then hand sewing to like make this a cute little roll with some, hot glue, but it’s kind of been my vibe recently. I haven’t been making clothing, but it’s been really nice to be able to cut and then sew the five pieces together, but for a gap, do a bunch of those, sit on the couch, stuff them, and then like you tie tie them so that they’re, you know, so that they’re smushed.
Nicole
But I’ve made maybe like… eight or so I’ve given away a couple. I don’t know why I’m making them. like if there’s It’s just the season. And it’s kind of nice to lean into something that is just frivolous and adorable. And so I gave one to my pole instructor yesterday in class because it was her birthday. Her birthday had just passed. And so I gave her a belated birthday pumpkin. She loved it. So I’ll put the pattern in the show notes, but yes, not as exciting as a wardrobe to St. Kitts. I wish it was that exciting and I can’t wait to hear more about your travels. But last but not least, Ada, what are you working on?
Ada
I realized as it is you were talking through that, that I am wearing the same pattern that I’m about to talk about. So have been sitting on, you know, when you have the good fabric and you just sit on it for a while. I had been sitting on this pre-quilted cotton from Merchant and Mills for probably two or three years.
I bought it before a local fabric store up in Boulder had gone out of business and closed. And I had about like a two and a half yard cut. It was all they had left in this colorway. It has been sitting in my stash forever. And I had asked my friend who I now teach with, what should I do with this cut? Because she’s great with natural fibers and kind of figuring out what to do with it. She was like, well, what if you actually just make it a quilt? You could just bind it and then you’re done.
And I was like, I don’t know, like that feels like a waste of the good fabric. Like I kind of want to wear this. And I was waiting for the right inspiration. So out of my two and a half yard cut, I ended up making a hacked Moss jacket by Helen’s Closet. So instead of doing the facing like I have on the sweater, I did a whole binding. I actually don’t think I’ve ever made that jacket straight through as is without hacking it somehow.
Like this is a knit, it’s a woven pattern. And another one I would bust it out of like one meter of linen. So there’s that. And that I have been wearing on repeat for the last like three days straight, except for today. and with the other parts of that piece of fabric, I made two, not one, but two Jilebi jumpers by Gowry, who was also a past guest, Patterns by Paary at B-Y-P-A-A-R-Y. Go follow her.
Ada
The jumper is super cute, seasonally appropriate for where I live right now. It will still be seasonally appropriate by the time this comes out. So if you live anywhere cold and you need a pullover, cute pattern, highly recommend. And it came out and like I don’t want to toot my own horn, but it came out very, very cute in that I didn’t mean to cut two, but I was cutting a fold and I accidentally cut out four sleeves instead of two. So I was like, we’re just going with it.
Nandita
A Happy Happy accident that you’re going to love over and over and over again.
Ada
Well, the bonus is that I’m actually going to be teaching this pattern. And so one of them is going to live in the studio as a sample. And I was like, well, the second one can be the one I wear at home. Otherwise, I don’t want to have to keep bringing things in and out of my closet. So I’m not mad about it.
Nandita
Win.
Nicole
All right. Well, I’d love to hear from the both of you on what you’re making all the time, constantly inspired. And why don’t we just, we’ll jump in. We’ll just dive in. And even though you were one of our very first guests, just so our listeners who might want to recap, can you please share, Nandita, a little bit about your Asian heritage and how it inspires your sewing?
Nandita
Yes, of course. So my parents are originally from India. They immigrated to the United States in the mid-60s. They both went to university here. And they were married, of course. So my sister and I were born and raised outside of Detroit in Michigan. And so growing up, we had, I would call it immersive childhood, and that in our home, we were encouraged to speak our language, which is Marathi.
And so we learned to speak Marathi and all of my extended family lives in India. So every few years, my parents would save up because it was quite expensive when we were growing up to fly back and forth to India. And we would go during the summers.
So not every year, but every few years. And one year, I believe I was in the first grade, my mother actually wanted my sister and I had experienced all of our Hindu holidays, which happened to be in the fall through the late fall.
So she took us out of school for a little bit with school permission. We were doing homework, basically homeschooled, but across the ocean in India. And we got to experience that.
And that experience, although I was very young, has stayed with me. So as I was growing up, I had more than not even a fondness, but almost a calling to go to India every few years to experience the vibrancy and the culture of India, as well as spending time with my extended family.
My cousins and I are quite close in a way, even though we didn’t necessarily grow up together. They were always very… inclusive and welcoming as if time had just stood still. So even if we had visited only every five years, those five years may have passed. But when we stepped foot into our family home, we were home.
So with that being said, I did that growing up. And then in college, I actually went. Then after I got married, I took my son. He was two.
And I went with him. Then a few years later, I decided that I wanted my sons to experience our holidays as well. So I took them out of school for the fall and we went and did Diwali and all of the holidays, that experience that I had so come to really, really just changed my life perspective in a way, if I may, knowing how much culture I wanted them to experience like I had.
So I took them. And then 2015, I did a solo trip to India And I spent a month with my extended family and it was amazing. And then we decided 10 years rolled by and my husband said, we need to go together.
So this trip, he was with me and we’re empty nesters now. So we invited our children, but they both could not, obviously. One had a job, the other one had a clerkship. So my husband and I went and we had the most fantastic time.
I cannot begin to tell you, life altering. I thought my experience when I was six years old was life altering. This in my adult life has changed my entire perspective.
Ada
Can I ask how long it took to put together this trip that you went on this time?
Nandita
So this time we started talking about it in 2023. As far as when we thought would be the best time, because in Asia, there’s the monsoon season. And really, since I was working at the time in the school district, I had to really think about my vacation and how I wanted to spend that time. So I wanted to go in the summer, but I knew the weather would be hit or miss, honestly.
But like I said, growing up, I had gone during the summer. So I remembered the monsoons and you can learn how to navigate. Things are a little bit different. And so my husband was like, well, we should go in the winter.
But I wanted to spend more than three weeks in India. Selfishly, I wanted to spend a good chunk of my time [there]. So I convinced him to do the monsoon season. And then that being said, 2023, 2024 comes around.
January of 2025, I started looking into potential areas to visit. In February, I booked the tickets to go to India. And then in March, I booked the three destinations that I’ll share with you for my trip.
So yeah, a couple of years. And in between that, I really knew what I was going towards. And when we talk about a fabric haul, I was hesitant to think like, should I admit how much I bought?
Because it seems really to somebody who, I’m laughing about it now, but it’s more than just a little bit. It is, I will tell you, close to five suitcases of fabric. I had six suitcases full of fabric.
Ada
Did you bring all six suitcases empty or did you have to buy suitcases when you got there?
Nandita
I bought a suitcase the day before I was leaving. I sent three full suitcases. He had half a suitcase for his stuff. The rest of it was all mine, all fabric. And really, when you invited me, I thought about this. I even was kind of talking out loud to myself. Do I admit how much I bought? Yep.
Ada
We can get into the details later. But let’s go back to the trip first before we get to the shopping.
Nandita
Yeah, yeah.
Ada
So you said you went to three destinations, ccan you give us a high level overview of those destinations and why you chose them?
Nandita
The first one we did was Kerala, which is in South India. And the reason being is my husband and I have always wanted to see as much of India as we can.
Although I have extended family in Mumbai and my husband has extended family in the state of Gujarat, we have actually taken our sons to see the Taj Mahal and Jaipur in Rajasthan. So we made it a point to see something where we didn’t have anybody. We just wanted to see it.
So Kerala, the state that we visited in South India, is known for their backwaters, almost like a canal system, the Venice of India in a way. And it has natural beauty as well as it’s known for its holistic and wellness retreats.
And so I figured, you know, my husband and I are well into middle age now. We should probably think about, you know, doing a retreat. So long story short, we watch a lot of White Lotus and we decided, you know what, we’re going to go up to a retreat.
So the research started, with okay, where do we go? And it just so happened that a friend of mine in India had just recently gone to a wellness retreat. on the backwaters of Kerala and he was raving about it and he got me in touch with some people who work for the retreat and they put together a beautiful package for my husband and I and so we did all the booking here.
I told them what we wanted to do, how long we were there, what all as far as even dining that we needed and transfers. So I booked that – as soon as we got to India within two days, we were on another flight to go to South India.
So South India, Kerala was to see the wellness retreat as well as the city that’s well known is called Kochi. And Kochi is known for, they were actually a Dutch colony for a while, as well as a very large Jewish presence.
So they still have a few members of I wouldn’t say Dutch, but they have people who stayed and they had intermarried. So they are originally Dutch, but now they’re Indian.
And there’s a few Jewish residents left. But there is a town in Kochi that is called Old Jew Town. And everyone who lives there now makes sure that they preserve the handiworks as well as antiquities and cottage small industries.
So we visited that, but now aside from the wellness retreat, I wanted to tell you really another reason that I went there because I wanted to take an immersive class in every destination we visited.
So I found a loom and sustainable studio that has, when Kerala had floods in 2018, many of the hand loom looms had been destroyed. A single gentleman whose ancestors and grandparents had grown up there left his corporate job to revitalize the handloom industry in South India.
And so he opened up a studio. He took all the destroyed looms and tried to get money to get them replaced, but with a little bit more, I wouldn’t say more sophisticated, but with a little, like there’s no, I would say machinery, like the original wooden looms. And the looms that were destroyed, the studio they’ve used for decoration now. So those original looms are still standing in the studio. So my husband and I took a weaving course while we were in Kochi and we learned how to weave on a loom.
Nicole
That sounds amazing.
Ada
Wow.
Nicole
How did he like the weaving?
Nandita
He loved it. So I have to say my entire family, whenever we’ve traveled, we’ve each picked something that we want to do or learn about. So the last few vacations that we’ve done, somebody has picked something.
So while we were in Costa Rica, we did a farm to table where we actually went to a family’s farm to learn to pick and cook. This time I chose the immersive weaving experience. And I asked my husband, I said, do you want to know what I’ve chosen? And he said, nope, surprise me.
He had no idea. we just rolled up. He goes, so what are we doing today? So we’re going to learn how to weave. So he made a coaster and I made a bookmark.
Yes, and that particular studio also makes sure that they have small batch designers who have sustainable fashion, sustainable design. So all of the clothing that’s there is created in small batches by young and up and coming designers.
Nicole
Did you pick up anything from them?
Nandita
We did. My son really loves fashion. So we picked up a hand painted cotton shirt buttoned down. And not only that, with each shirt, there is a small little vial of the actual seeds that of cotton that they use that they planted to make the cotton.
Nicole
Wow.
Nandita
I was very impressed.
Ada
That’s amazing.
Nandita
Very impressed.
Nicole
Is there a large cotton industry around that area? I know India is a very large cotton industry.
Nandita
Yes. Not as much in that city area per se, but within the state. There is, and that’s a question that I asked the owner and founder of the organization.
He is now branching out into all of India. So it started off as a passion project for him because it was his family, and his memories of growing up, and now he’s going to other parts of India to really encourage not to lose the artistry and the making.
And so he’s really focusing on handloom and textiles and weaving.
Nicole
Are there particular motifs or techniques that are unique to Kochi that you were able to learn about while you were there?
Nandita
So part of it is they are, again, they focus on a lot of cotton and more than Kochi, aside from the weaving, it’s the hand loom process. And their saris are Kasavu saris, which are basically all cotton. And if you don’t mind, I can show you one because I have one right here that I purchased.
Nicole
Of course, we do not mind. Please, YouTube, come to YouTube.
Nandita
It’s all off white and gold threads.
Ada
Wow.
Nandita
And really the whole point is, because I asked, it’s intended to be very minimal, but it’s all in the weave.
Nicole
Oh, the dream.
Nandita
And more so the weave and just the way that it’s cream adorned with golds. Some of them have some peacock motifs, but I would say an understated elegance. And I found them to be so beautiful that I bought three.
Nicole
Is there a little bit of a check pattern woven into that?
Nandita
This one is a check, yes. So this is a check and it has a very like, I would say on the smaller side, if I may, since I’m letting you know they’re right here.
Nicole
Okay. Okay.
Nandita
I was very excited. I purchased this one because I found it to be a little unique. This is orange and gold.
Ada
Wow.
Nandita
And again, it’s off just a real nice cream color, 100% cotton, all hand loom.
Ada
For listeners who aren’t on our YouTube, it is an off-white with a big gold stripe and next to the gold on both sides there’s like a very distinct geometric orange pattern. You really should go to our YouTube to get the full visual. It is beautiful.
Nandita
Thank you! So that was something that was really, I had known about it, but it’s not necessarily something that I thought about every day. And this trip, since I had been sewing a lot more since back in 2015, I had made it a point to look for stores that were, of course, small business and family run. Most of them are.
And more importantly, cotton. You can get beautiful silk, you can get beautiful jacquard, brocade, it’s all there. But I focused on cotton, hand loom saris, hand painted fabrics, vegetable dye, block print. I bought a few digital prints only because the prints were just too cute to pass up. But I was very, what I would think, I had really thought through this trip on what I wanted.
And so a lot of what I brought back really fulfilled the goal that I had set for myself in that I know what I like to wear. I know what my style is.
And all of these fell in line with also what I want to do as a maker. Because yes, I purchased a lot. And I keep saying that because at some point I even thought to myself, is this too much?
Am I buying too much? Am I really going to make all of this? Why do I need it? But then I really took a step back and Aside from the clothing that is beautiful, the joy and satisfaction that I get from holding these textiles and knowing that I got to not only pick it out, but I get to meet people and their families who had done this for generations.
That in itself is a memory that goes far beyond the dress that I make with it. And for me personally, I don’t necessarily sew a million dresses in a week. No, I take a little bit longer, but I also go through my closet at least twice a year and go through what I may not be wearing as much, or if I am wearing it, is it time to cut it up and make it into linings or use something other purpose?
So I make it a point to do a lot of donating as well as repurposing what I have. So when I thought about that and what I was purchasing, it really felt like if you’re going to spend your money, spend it on something that not only is worthwhile, but it is bringing something to the economy that I chose to support.
Nicole
And yeah being that intentional about what you purchase while you travel is so important. And sure, you know, mean, you keep mentioning you bought a lot, but all of it sounds so thoughtful. like If I were to fill six suitcases, there’s going to be garbage in there that I’m not going to care about. And I really love the thought that you put into what you really want and what would make you happy.
And you’re a prolific sewer. You know, earlier we were talking about how I’m into pumpkins right now because I’m not really feeling it, but you get so much use and joy out of the fabric that, like I’m always excited to see what you make. And I know other, like the internet is excited to see, you know, all of the wonderful pictures that you take and the onus for putting on this, for inviting you back on the podcast was I was following you on Instagram, looking at what was going on on your trip. So, uh, I’m really happy for you that this trip has been so meaningful, for you.
So Kochi, what else? Anything else that you did there before you moved on?
Nandita
So, no, we were there. It wasn’t as long. It was five days. But again, the monsoon starts in South India first. So their rains have started about mid to late May.
We got there the first week of June. So we had nice weather, but it poured down rain. It rained so much and it was so beautiful but we really kind of timed everything according to okay we’re looking you can tell the sky is about to open up and so we did everything accordingly and so we had done i had booked that immersive workshop and as soon as we were finished we knew we needed to get into the cab and get back to the hotel So we did that and then we flew back to Mumbai.
And Mumbai is where my extended family is from. So that would kind of be our landing base. So there are several, several markets in different areas of Mumbai known for just textiles.
And one of the most famous ones is called Crawford Market. And if you’ve ever been on Instagram, you’re looking at reels, Crawford Market comes up a lot. And part of the reason is you can get a lot of bridal fabrics as well as a lot of overseas manufacturers by wholesale from Crawford Market.
But I don’t go to Crawford Market. I actually go to a smaller market outside of where my family lives, meaning it’s in the city of the township of Dadar. And it’s very close to where my cousin lives. And although it’s smaller, mostly cotton, and it’s just been there for a really long time. The market is called Hindmata. And in 2015, I visited and I came back and I was just blown away because not only is it still the same, which I was surprised about, but it’s really focused on India, especially has been focusing on sustainability, and reuse, reduce, recycle. So a lot of just making sure that the cotton, some of the cotton is what’s called a reborn initiative. So you’re using things that have been used before and sustainability.
So Hindmata has really moved towards that as well. So I was even more excited. So as soon as I landed, the very next afternoon, my cousin and were in Hindmata jet lagged and all.
I was starting my shopping so there in Hindmata there are several different small stores. You have stores that go from really, we’re calling boutique, where the designers, fashion designers of India come for their bridal coutures, ateliers, to everyday, really what I would say you’d wear to work types of cottons.
So you can get everything under the sun. There I bought all of my lining fabrics. And I bought a lot of, and you’ll see as you look on my Instagram when we get to that point, salwar kameez is the pants and the long kurta and then the dupatta is kind of like a scarf or a shawl.
You can buy those in what’s called salwar kameez set. and you get the fabric pre-cut. I always buy a number of those sets because it’s already, the color coordinating is always taken care of for you.
So with that, it gets a little tricky though because you don’t have as much yardage. So the dress that you’re gonna see featured soon on my feed has been made from salwar kameez set.
And I used the dupatta, the scarf for my bodice and my ruffles. And I used everything else for the skirt and the rest of the dress. And I’ve kind of made a few stories.
Ada
I love that they already match it for you because I am not great at that.
Nandita
Everything else…
Ada
Like color matching? Ooh.
Nandita
And they’re so helpful. The fun thing about these stores is that they are literally textiles from the floor to the ceiling.
You have workers in there who are climbing on ladders, jumping over loads of fabric. And if you’re not careful, I personally thrive in this type of environment.
It can become overwhelming. Because it’s hot sometimes. Not everybody likes to turn their AC on. There’s a lot of people coming in and out, especially the stores that they have. They’re regulars.
And so there’s literally fabric being thrown from the top of the ceiling. There you go. There you go. There you go. For me, that’s the excitement. That’s where I’m just, I’m in a creative zone.
So I enjoyed myself. And Hindmata I visited seven times.
Ada
I was going to ask, did you fill the six suitcases in one go?
Nandita
Yes.
Ada
But it sounds like it took multiple trips.
Nandita
Yeah, and this is just the state. This is Mumbai.
[AD]
Nicole
Thanks again to Oliso for sponsoring this episode. We received their M3 Pro Project Iron, the little guy in exchange for an honest review. So first it’s super cute. I love the small size for the portability. And while I was using it on pressing scenes for the small zip bag, it felt like it pressed as well as a full size iron. I will say that one thing that tripped me up was that it doesn’t have a handle. Like you can scoop your fingers underneath. So I had to get used to the feel of palming it and like gripping it differently. Still a solid handhold. I just needed to adjust the way that I grabbed it, but otherwise it was pretty fun. What do you think, Ada?
Ada
I also wasn’t sure what I was going to think about the M3 Pro, which I have been personally calling the mini iron, but I’ve been surprisingly delighted by it. Definitely the grip is a little bit different. I think it’s more ergonomic than let’s say just grabbing the handle of a regular iron.
I have tried it out for a dress with many seams, lots of curves, tiny corners, and it’s been really fast to heat up and easy to use. And since the footprint of it is about not quite half, maybe two thirds of a regular iron, I think it’s actually a great option for a travel iron if you have been burned literally or figuratively by hard water stains from hotel irons, or maybe you’ve shown up to an Airbnb with a full linen outfit and no iron in the building.
The manual says it can handle different voltages too. You just have to plug it into the plug converter. So I will be tasting this out on my next international trip and I will report back. But so far it is looking very promising.
We will link to the M3 Pro in and the show notes for this episode. Thanks again to Oliso for sponsoring this episode.
[END OF AD]
Nandita
Now we’re we’re going to get to the next site. So from Mumbai, we went to the state of Gujarat. And we went to the city of Vadodara where my husband’s family is from.
And I had done the research before what store I wanted to go to. And so I asked his cousin, i said, this is the store I want to go to. Do you think you’ll be open? Because again, certain times of the year, certain days are not open.
Oh yeah, I’m sure it’s open. I found the store and this store was probably my dream. I was speechless. I walk in and again, you sit on the floor. So they’ve got like pillows and like not mattresses, but just like cots.
And you sit down and you start pointing. And I had already kind of decided what I wanted. Again, since I focus on the cottons, I just started pointing. And they started bringing it out. The fun part about this was, at first, this man was not interested in me at all.
So don’t think he quite realized that I was about to say yes to it all. Forget about one or two pieces. So then when he started figuring out that, wait a minute, she he thought I was just asking him to pull fabric.
But whatever I had seen, I already knew what I wanted. So then I just started telling him how many meters I wanted. And all of a sudden, the smile on this man’s face, twinkle in his eye, all the fabric that’s hidden in the back started coming out.
And that’s where I said, now look, you’ve been holding out on me. And he said, I didn’t know. The most gorgeous patchwork, all hand-on.
I just looked at him. I said, from one of my favorite movies, I said, “You’re killing me, Smalls!” And it was, I spent a good two hours just going through fabric. And my husband and his cousin really were indulging me.
And they were really just having fun. They sat on the bench outside chit-chatting, catching up, and I was just pointing. I’d like this. I’d like this. So let me show you, if you don’t mind, one of my most favorite pieces from Gujarat.
Nicole
Yes, please.
Nandita
And I’m going to stand for this one so you can see. This, again, is completely 100% cotton, but with an embroidered border.
Ada
Wow, and the embroidery is an animal motif?
Nicole
Animals?
Nandita
It is. So you’ve got deer there’s palm trees. Yeah, they’re deer. This one, this one is deer. Yeah. There was one with the camel, but that’s somewhere else. But yeah, these are deer and it’s got the scallop border and then all the embroidery. And I looked at him and I said, so when were you going to show me this?
Ada
Wow.
Nandita
He smiled and he says, now I’m going to show you all the good stuff.
Ada
Thank you.
Nandita
And as much time as I did over there. All just beautiful quality cotton. So that was the state of Gujarat. In the state of Gujarat, again, I think going back to what we were talking about, every state I visited, I wanted to do an immersive activity. So I took a painting class while I was in Gujarat and it was silver foil painting. So I attended black round canvas and did the transfer using carbon paper and the adhesive and the gold leaf. So I did that.
And I had not only such a wonderful time, I got to meet some people who are doing all sorts of artistic things and have wonderful hobbies. And then the fabric, we were talking, they were asking me, of course, and I explained to them what I would be doing with some of the fabric or what kind of ideas I had in mind.
And in a way, i think it reminded even people who take it for granted, oh, I didn’t know about this store. And, you know, that’s a good idea to buy those sets and make them into something else. So for me, I think it was a win-win in that I got to do something I love to do, which is just touch and look at textiles.
And then meet new people are like, oh, yeah, we need to go there too. So that was in the state of Gujarat. the painting and the fabric. Most of my fabric I purchased there, by the way.
I bought most of it there because it is just not only beautiful, it is very inexpensive. So although me getting to India was a little costly, the amount of money I saved on fabric, I can’t even begin to tell you.
Ada
Can you, when you say, you know, you saved a bit of money, can you quantify that for folks who are, you know, maybe thinking about budgeting for a trip in the future?
Nandita
I also, yeah, you can just ask.
Yeah. So aside from of course, the airline tickets are expensive. So you’re looking at thousands of dollars to travel to anywhere in Asia, really, I can say.
But as far as fabric goes, the average that I would spend, it was probably 400 to rupees, which in US dollars is a little over $4 a meter.
Ada
And a meter is slightly bigger than a yard.
Nandita
Bigger than a yard! The lining fabric that I purchased, cause I made mention of that earlier, depending on if you want a 44 inch or 55 inch [width] was less than a dollar.
Yes. So, and again, because it’s all made there, it’s not as if you know, this is what’s to be expected. You cannot charge more than that because people would not buy it because it’s readily available.
So as far as lining goes, I like to line most of my clothes, it just gives it longevity as well as a nice finish. I bought 10 meters of white lining fabric and the store owner almost threw me out. He was getting so fed up because I was buying things in such large quantities. And I said, listen, there’s a reason.
But yeah, so the lining fabrics, again, this is cotton. Cotton is readily available. Silks, jacquards, brocades, those of course are much more expensive.
Patchwork is expensive in certain areas depending on the level of time that’s taken for patchwork. So some of my patchwork was a little bit more, but even then, I’m talking about $12 a yard versus $4 a yard. So there’s no comparison.
Ada
Okay, fair enough. I love that.
Nandita
Yeah
Ada
I love that for you. I’m not trying to mentally calculate how much that would cost to fill a suitcase. I’m not going to do it. But I’d love to know, obviously, you went to three different destinations, three different states.
What was the most surprising thing that you learned on this trip? And is there anything you wish you got to do or see more of?
Nandita
The most surprising thing was the state of Gujarat, where my husband’s family is originally from. From whatever I had learned, it’s a much more conservative state. It’s a dry state for one thing.
And it was seemingly to me, I felt it was more patriarchal and so I did go to a cafe that my our cousin’s daughter she’s in her 20s and her mother said we really need to go to this cafe I think you’re gonna really like it and the cafe is run only by transgender and it LGBTQ they only employ non-binary LGBTQ plus employees and artisans.
And so everything that was in this boutique was handmade and handcrafted by the particular boutique, by transgender citizens that come from all parts of India.
And the restaurant, the chef and everyone who works there, same thing. They come from all parts of India. They’re welcomed. They’re provided with health insurance. as well as lodging as they get their footing when they move to this state.
And I was blown away. I was so not expecting that in this state. In Mumbai, it’s different. Of course, it’s like New York City. It’s huge that everybody’s doing what they want to do. Everyone’s living their life. But in Gujarat, I was… surprised! And so I made mention of that. I said, I was not expecting this. And the cafe is called Gajra Cafe. And Gajra are the little flowers that you put in your hair, like the hairband.
And there’s a large community that is finally able to be seen and be employed and be able to purchase their own homes, all because of this initiative of Gajra Cafe and Artists in Corner. And it is housed in a local college.
Ada
Wow.
Nandita
So I was that to me, if I could have spent more time there just talking to the artisans and going through everything that was made, the food was delicious. That was something that really I was not expecting.
Ada
I love that.
Nicole
Do you feel that’s the type of experience that I like to look for when I am in other places? You know, just something that is like, not idealistic, but wish that everyone can have that sort of safe space, employment, creative freedom. That is a really neat thing to celebrate. Is there anything you feel like you wish you got to see more of?
Nandita
In this trip, I would actually say, I wouldn’t if I had another two weeks, I would have been able to be there for one of our important religious festivals. And especially in the state of Maharashtra, Mumbai, it is huge. just one of our biggest holidays. It’s Ganpati or Ganesh Chaturthi, which celebrates Lord Ganesh. And it is amazing. and the city shuts down because they make these huge statues and there’s dancing in the street and it’s very festive.
I would have liked to stay for that because there’s also a very large or artisanal movement where you’re crafting and creating different outfits for Ganesh or even for yourself or your home, you’re decorating it. I would have enjoyed taking a few more workshops.
Nicole
Hopefully you can go back another year.
Ada
There’s always. Yeah, I was going to say next year.
Nandita
Yeah.
Ada
Do you have any travel tips in general, maybe for people who want to either plan a similar trip or experience some textile arts or do some of the things that you did on your trip?
Nandita
Yes, I would recommend, especially because there’s always been a conversation about social media and the pros and cons of social media. But for me, I have always used Instagram as a learning tool. And so I actively sought out, first I did like Google searches of cottage industries or workshops near whatever city I was planning to go to.
And then I found their Instagram page and I reached out to them. And I reached out to these different workshops and explained what I was about, what I was looking to do. And I was pleasantly surprised that all of them wrote back to me and gave me a lot of really helpful advice. Because not everyone’s always open at certain times of the year.
So it really helped to kind of narrow down what experience was available to us with our schedule. So if you are planning a trip to India per se, and you know that you would like to experience that, I would suggest finding their Instagram pages and going through them if you have to. I DM everybody because that way you’re actually getting not only more information, but somebody is writing back to you. I found that everyone that I wrote to was very responsive.
When it comes to shopping, because my family’s in Mumbai, I had a little bit of a leg up. But that being said, earlier on in the podcast, I said that although Crawford Market is the most well-known and most Instagrammable, the smaller markets are better, in my opinion. They’re better because, yes, you have to do a little bit of searching. You do have to do a little bit of hunting. But what you might see there, you’re not going to find anywhere else because it’s small and the vendors have been there for generations.
And nobody’s actually trying to sell you anything, which is nice because they’re like, OK, you want look at it? Great. You don’t. Good. Go on. I like that.
Ada
I love that. Everyone write that down. Spend more time on Instagram and bookmark your trips and DM all the stories you want to go to.
Nandita
Exactly and it’s funny because I had DM’d them when I did finally make it to some of their stores I did them a genuine solid and did Instagram stories for them so I did their content for them and they said look can we put it on our page I said absolutely!
Ada
Oh, I love that. That is, shout out, like a free way to support a small business. Whether or not you’re going to purchase, help them make content. If I were to tell you how much of my day was spent on making content.
Nandita
Well, you know, just a plug because I’m not just plugging it, but this skin, everything here, Erleia I travel everywhere. St. Kitts, I had it on in India, Dubai, where it was probably 114 degrees. I was also in Dubai in June. I went to the top of the Burj Khalifa and I had a picture with my balm
Nicole
It’s not sponsored content here.
Ada
Not sponsored. Very grateful. Thank you.
Nandita
I say it: I love it. I give it to everybody I know.
Ada
While we’re on the topic of content, we did get to see that one of the pieces of fabric that you brought home has already been made into a dress. You were featured by True Bias with the Roscoe dress made out of one of your new fabric finds. Can you tell us more about that particular make and that collaboration? Because not only were you in our Instagram feeds, you were also in our inboxes.
Nandita
Yes. So that actually happened while I was in India. Yes. And I got an email from True Bias and I was thrilled because I’m a huge fan. And I said, I can definitely participate. However, I’m overseas for the summer. What are some of the dates? And it just so happened – September. I knew I would be returning in August. So I told them, I said, well, here’s what, here’s what I’m going to do.
I’m definitely going to do the Roscoe, but I’m hoping to use 100% cotton textiles that I find in India. So the textile that you saw was from my third destination, the state of Madhya Pradesh, the city of Indore, where my grandparents used to have a house.
And so I had not been back to Indore in over 30 years. So I made it a point to go to Indore. I flew there. I met my cousin who still lives there. And I went to the garment factory garment district there.
And their stores are even more delightful because you don’t even get to go into the store. You have to sit outside in the street on a little stool. And then they’re a little bit above you and you start pointing. And this particular bolt was hidden near the side. And I looked at it and I said, what’s that? And so he pulled it out and it is the most beautiful. It almost feels like jute cotton . But I knew it would soften up and it had it’s like people who are holding pots on their heads and it’s all geometric figures so i said this will really look nice for fall and so that’s where i found that on the last leg of my textile adventure Then I came home, I immediately washed it.
And we’ll talk about that too, about the washing. So I pre-washed it, treated it, and I knew that I could not sit on all this fabric. So that’s been a personal goal of mine. Cut into it, wear it, love it, use it, share it.
So I immediately cut into that. whipped up the Roscoe, got my pictures, got some content done. And I can say True Bias was so happy and so excited. And I was really pleased to be invited. It was a really nice experience.
Nicole
Can we back up before we get to the pre-washing and when you get home, the third destination where you got this fabric, did you do a class while you were there as well?
Nandita
That’s the only place I did not do a class. And the reason was that I had signed up for the class, but the woman who was leading it went on vacation and she forgot. So she said, “I’m so sorry, I’m going to be back next week.” I said, “Oh, I won’t be here.” But I had signed up for a block printing class.
Nicole
Oh.
Nandita
I was a little disappointed. But like you said, you know, somewhere along the line, I went back to Mumbai and I did a lino cutting study. block printing making class there. So I did get that block printing in. I did do a class in Mumbai.
Ada
I love that. You got it in somehow and then one day you will make it back to maybe take this lady’s class.
Nandita
Exactly. One day when I go back though, I will plan a longer set of classes and do a textile workshop because those are prevalent in India. Many people take them. So I’m planning on doing that.
Nicole
Can you take me with you?
Nandita
I would love to. India is so much more than what you see. And every state has its own vibe, if you will. And like my niece and nephew say, aura, major aura points for each state. I cannot tell you how much more there is to see that I hope to be able to see, but it takes planning, just like with anything.
And with India, especially because of the distance and the timing has to just be so, because there’s always something happening in India. So you never know if something’s going to be open or closed. That part, I can say, could be frustrating if you have limited time.
And if you’re going and you’ve got all of 10 days, you just can’t do it all. So that’s when you decide what’s important to you. What is it that you want out of this trip? Do you want to be in an immersive experience?
Then that’s what you can do. Do you want to be able to shop a little bit and pretend you’re in a Bollywood film? You can do it. Just know that you have to plan accordingly.
Ada
Okay, but actually tell us about the pre-wash process. Have you already pre-washed six suitcases of fabric?
Nandita
I have. I have. So I am a stickler for pre-washing and pre-shrinking everything.
Ada
How many loads of laundry?
Nandita
So what I did this time around, in 2015, I was there during the winter. So I had help washing everything. I washed everything in India and line dried everything. This time, because of the monsoon, nothing was going to dry. So I knew that it wasn’t going to make any sense. So what I did is I came home and I have, I’ll show you, these very large laundry bags. And because even if you use color color catcher sheets, you’re never gonna get all of it, especially when you’re looking at natural dyes, vegetable dyes, and then they’ll say, oh, it’s all natural, and sometimes it’s not. You have to just know, for the most part, it is.
So what I did was all my patchwork and fabrics that I was really a little bit hesitant about giving to my local laundromat, I washed in these bags. And then I dry them in my home.
The rest of it, I colored, sorted everything by different shades of greens, oranges, yellows, you name it. And I had bags and bags that I took to my local laundromat and washed in industrial machines.
Ada
Work smarter, not harder. I like it.
Nandita
And I also budgeted for that. So I am a saver. And so everything was in my budget. So I knew this time I would not be able to pre-wash in India. So I had left part of my vacation budget for my laundry. It was thirty bags.
Listeners, if you’re not watching on YouTube, Ada and Nicole’s mouth if right now that I sorted by color and went to, we call Mr. Sam. He’s our local laundromat guy.
So Mr. Sam, these are the blues. I got to stick with the blues. These are here. And all the patchwork. And I have bought a few pieces of beautiful crepe and hand embroidered fabric that I’ve washed in these bags.
Nicole
Those bags are gigantic. I’ve made a bunch of smaller ones that I fit. They’re like door sized.
Ada
That bag looked like it was a 24 by 36 cutting mat when you held it up.
Nandita
I have three of them. And also because I mentioned that I’m a stickler, I wash all my laces and trims as well. So I have smaller laundry bags for the laces and trims. I pre-wash all of that. And then I take boxes that I’ve gotten orders from. I cut them up. And then I make them into boards to wrap my trim around. So if you can kind of gather, reduce, reuse, recycle, friends.
Ada
We love to see it. Yes, I also do that to bolts. have a lot of cardboard boxes that are now bolts.
Nicole
Well, thank you for taking us on your journey with you. Metaphorically, maybe one day you can put together a textile tour and we can all go together.
Nandita
Thank you. I love that. That’s actually on my list of things to do for future textile tours.
Ada
Sign me up.
Nicole
I want to go on a textile tour so bad and you’ve already done it. So all you gotta do is figure out how to get a group there and to definitely, you know, get paid to do it too, for sure.
Nandita
Yes, exactly. Exactly.
Nicole
Wow. Thank you again for joining us, Nandita. So glad to spend some time with you.
Nandita
This has been nice for me. It’s been about two months since I’ve returned. And it’s been every time I look at the fabric, it really truly brings a smile to my face. But it takes me back to really the hustle and bustle, the fun of just going and looking and and touching. And some of the things that we can’t really do that much anymore because we just have limited stores. Like for me, there’s nothing there are no stores nearby.
There’s quilting stores, but as far as apparel garment and for me to be able to so support smaller businesses. Yes, it was an adventure. I loved it. I’m in a position where I was able to do so. But even when I travel outside of my state, I make it a point to look for smaller female run, LGBTQ+ smaller businesses to support our community and to support our small business over any big box store any day.
Ada
I love that. If you want to see more of the haul, trip, the fabrics that are yet to be posted as makes, where can our listeners go and find you, Nandita?
Nandita
So you can find me on Instagram at Divine Dita, D-I-T-A (@divinedita).
Ada
And we will have a link to Nandita’s Instagram. We will also try to get as many links as we can from you on places that they can find, whether they’re on Instagram or maps or however they can find their way there if they happen to be planning a textile journey to India, or maybe you’ll be planning it for us.
Nandita
Planting the seeds now, you never know.
Ada
Thank you so much for joining us for this episode of the Asian Sewist Collective podcast. If you like our show, please consider supporting us on Ko-fi by becoming a one-time or monthly supporter or by buying our sewing labels. Your financial support helps us with our overhead expenses. The link to our coffee page is KO-FI .com Asian Sewist Collective and you can find the link in our show notes on our website and on our Instagram account. Check us out on Instagram at Asian Sewist Collective. That’s one word: Asian Sewist Collective. You can also help us out by spreading the word and telling your friends We would also appreciate it if you could rate review and subscribe to this podcast on Apple podcast or wherever you get your podcast
Nicole
All of the links and resources mentioned in today’s episode will be in the show notes on our website That’s AsianSewistCollective.com and we’d love to hear from you. Email us with your questions, comments or even voice messages if you want to be featured on future episodes at AsianSewistCollective@gmail.com. Thank you so much to the other members of our collective who made this episode a reality. This is the Asian Sewist Collective podcast and we’ll see you next time.